NEW DEAL | High costs hinder sustainable fashion industry – “Companies can be criticized for greenwashing”

Food, housing and transport account for the largest environmental impact. In fourth place is the fashion and textile industry. Product innovation can make the industry more sustainable, but there are obstacles in the way of a transition worthy of the name. We spoke to Sara Harper, a textile expert at the University of Borås.

What are the environmental and social sustainability challenges for the fashion industry?

– It is a complex issue as the fashion and textile industry is extremely diverse. But some of the challenges include overproduction, harmful chemicals, microplastics, difficulties with transparency and traceability, and difficulties in implementing circular business models. These are precisely the priority areas of the EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles.

– The major barrier to change is money. Relocating production and adapting products often involves very high costs for companies.

How is the fashion industry working on sustainability today?

– Despite the fact that consumers, brands and policy makers are increasingly focusing on environmental and social sustainability goals, many fashion companies are addressing the issue without any strategic integration into their business model. Their efforts are often inadequate and can be criticized as ‘greenwashing’.

– Of course, it is easier for larger companies to work on sustainability practices because it is largely a cost issue. My research shows that some smaller companies offering made-to-order production show synergies between innovation and environmental sustainability. This is partly because they work with local partners in the supply chain to reduce overproduction and increase product quality. The downside, however, is that it can be difficult to resell customized products.

How can process and product innovation contribute to sustainability solutions?

– There are synergies at different levels between customization, innovation and sustainability. Innovation goals such as working with organic and recycled materials, as well as process innovation to, for example, reduce waste and increase quality, drive environmental sustainability performance. At the same time, there are several contradictions and barriers to getting there. For example, increased costs with sustainable materials.

– Many companies overcome the obstacles by having a strong belief in their business models. They recognize that costs are challenging in the short term, but that customized and sustainable business models are competitive in the long run.

What do you think are the most important measures to make the textile industry more sustainable?

– These are those linked to the UN Sustainable Development Goals as set out in the 2030 Agenda. Actions should aim, among others, to reduce overproduction, material use and waste in supply chains. This requires integrating both environmental and social sustainability objectives into the strategic design of business models and related design decisions. My research shows that it is feasible even in smaller companies. For example, through partnerships between SMEs with local or regional production and sourcing.

What radical innovations do you think we will see in the fashion industry in the near future?

– This is a major issue for an industry that is highly fragmented. In my work, I have focused on companies that are either focused on local or regional production of small volumes or smaller purchases. They, and other companies at the cutting edge, are already working on production technologies such as 3D knitting, 3D weaving, 3D printing and automation of sewing processes.

– While industry is focusing on digital and functional innovations, as well as recycled and environmentally friendly materials, customers need to reduce their consumption levels. A holistic approach is needed to reduce negative impacts of production across the value chain.

Contact sara.harper@hb.se

More about the thesis

Sara Harper recently defended her thesis Supply network configuration for small-series apparel production in high-cost contexts: Opportunities and challenges from selected EU countries at the University of Borås. Download it.